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Although you can now proceed directly to Digilipur by road across the Austin Bridge, a small ferry still runs once daily (depart 9.30am returns 12.30 pm) from Mayabunder to Kalighat, chugging through a narrowing, Mangrove lined estuary and offering a more relaxed, if slower, point of entry. A cluttered little bazaar unfolds from the top of the slipway, hemmed in by dense mangrove swamps, and when you arrive, a bus should be standing here to take you to Digilipur. If there isn’t, head for one of the village’s dismal little chai stalls and dig in for a wait, or turn right to see if there’s a room in the three roomed APWD Rest House on the hill overlooking the end of the street. The only food is at chai stalls in the bazaar.

The one worthwhile place to visit in this area is Ramnagar, 10 km northeast of town and served by hourly buses, where there’s a beautiful sandy beach backed by unspoilt forest in which it’s possible to camp. Try to rent a cycle from one of the stalls in Kalighat, though, as the beach is 2km from Ramnagar bazaar, the nearest source of refreshments. In principle, four buses per day run north from Kalighat to Diglipur they get crammed full, but the trip takes only 45 minutes. Look out for logging elephants beside the road shortly after leaving Kalighat.

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Andaman and Nicobar Islands, India